over pavlovas, a meringue cake that, when baked to perfection, was as light as the ballet dancer for which it was named.
Sometimes we even enjoyed cream between meals, especially if visitors were expected. Afternoon tea was rolled into the front room on a trolley. The teapot, always clad in a hand-knit tea cozy, sat next to a lace doily on which we placed a plate stacked with oven-fresh scones or a Victoria sandwich cake.
I would smother the scone with homemade jam – red currant, gooseberry, raspberry, whatever was the recent season’s garden harvest – and plop a generous spoonful of cream on top. Jam and cream were combined to create the filling in a sandwich cake. Biting into a slice was tricky – cream and jam would ooze out and smear over my cheeks. I’d have to hastily catch the overspill from the slice with a curl of my tongue before it dropped, but I wasn’t always on time. A scrubbing at the sink was usually in order afterward.
Sometimes we would forego the whipping and simply pour liquid cream from a jug on to a plateful of strawberries or raspberries, but first we had to pick the fruit. My Auntie Esther would dispatch us, equipped with bowls as bottomless as our bellies, to the raspberry patch outside her back door. We delved into the thicket of canes and plucked the raspberries until our fingers and mouths ran bloody with scarlet juice and our tummies ached. At lunch time, we piled the raspberries into our dishes with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar, and emptied the cream jug over them so the berries looked like islands of fuschia nipples lapped by a sea of silk.
Who eats cream with such luxurious abandon anymore?
In spite of it all, no one was really obese back then, pudgy, for sure, but not grotesquely fat. But that was in the day when there were no drive-through windows, no buses to school, no 24-hour cartoon channels, no remote controls. We all worked off what we ate without a lot of effort. Not like today.
Before a family gathering last year, my sister and I took a run to the grocery to pick up last minute ingredients for the day’s meal. As we bent over the dairy case, checking the fat content of cheeses and margarines, our eyes set upon it at the same time – cream. We eyed each other, afraid to even suggest such sinful consumption, but we knew what the other was thinking. My sister snatched the cream and threw it in the basket. It was done. We had splurged. Tonight we were going to indulge in the past and not feel a shred of guilt. Until tomorrow. Then we’d hit spinning class and long for the days when we didn’t have to consider cream a treat.
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